Five mistakes that make a paint job look unprofessional.

1. Skipping the prep. Paint does not hide flaws — it magnifies them. A fresh coat over dust, grease, or loose old paint will bubble, flake, or peel within months. Proper prep means cleaning, sanding, filling, and priming before you even open the tin.

2. Using the wrong finish for the room. A high-gloss wall in a north-facing bedroom catches every imperfection and every glint of cold light. A flat matt in a busy hallway marks the first time a bag brushes against it. Each space demands a specific sheen level.

3. Buying cheap brushes and rollers. Bargain tools shed bristles into wet paint, leave tram lines from cheap roller nap, and make cutting in a nightmare. A decent synthetic brush and a quality microfibre roller pay for themselves in time saved and finish gained.

4. Overloading the brush. Thick paint looks impressive for about ten minutes, then it sags, drips, and dries unevenly. Two thin coats always beat one heavy one. The second coat adds depth and durability; the first coat is only ever the foundation.

5. Painting in the wrong conditions. A damp day, a cold room, or direct sunlight on fresh paint changes how it dries. Paint needs stable temperature and airflow to cure properly. Rush it and you will be repainting far sooner than you planned.

The sheen level of paint is not just about looks — it determines durability, washability, and how forgiving the surface is to imperfections.

Matt has almost no shine. It hides lumps and bumps beautifully, which is why decorators love it on ceilings and older walls. The downside is that it marks easily and does not wipe clean well. Use it in low-traffic bedrooms, living rooms, and ceilings.

Satin sits in the middle — a soft, pearl-like sheen that reflects light gently without glare. It is wipeable, durable, and works well on woodwork and walls in hallways, kitchens, and bathrooms. If you are unsure, satin is the safest all-rounder.

Gloss is highly reflective and extremely durable. It is traditionally used on skirtings, architraves, doors, and windows because it stands up to knocks and wipes clean effortlessly. On large wall areas, however, it is unforgiving — every dent and patch will catch the light.

Preparation is where amateurs and professionals separate. Here is the sequence we follow on every job:

Clean first. Grease, nicotine, and dust all repel paint. Wash walls with sugar soap or a mild detergent solution, then rinse and let them dry completely.

Repair next. Fill cracks, holes, and dents with the right filler for the substrate. Deep holes need building filler in layers; shallow imperfections need a skim of fine surface filler. Sand every repair flush with the wall.

Sand everything. Even if a wall looks smooth, a light sand with 120-grit paper creates a key for the new paint to grip. Vacuum the dust away, then wipe with a damp cloth.

Prime where needed. New plaster needs a mist coat. Bare wood needs knotting solution and primer. Patched areas need spot-priming so they do not flash through the final coats.

Not every room ages at the same rate. High-traffic and moisture-prone spaces wear faster, while quiet bedrooms can look fresh for years.

Hallways and staircases take the most punishment — scuffs from shoes, bags, and pets. Expect to repaint every two to three years if you use a durable finish.

Kitchens and bathrooms suffer from steam, grease, and temperature swings. A good satin or eggshell with moisture resistance will last three to five years before it starts to look tired.

Living rooms and bedrooms are gentler environments. With quality paint and proper prep, you can expect five to seven years of good appearance — sometimes longer if the room does not get heavy use.

Exteriors are at the mercy of British weather. South-facing elevations fade and crack faster than sheltered ones. A well-applied exterior system should last five to ten years, but inspect annually for early signs of failure.